Material Memory Studio — Research
Material Research Library
A living archive of material references, historical sources, biomaterial experiments, pigments, binders, and artistic research — accumulated across 12 countries and ongoing studio practice.
Each entry includes what the material is, why artists use it, historical context, basic process, common failures, and Jay's own studio notes. The library grows with each workshop, residency, and research trip.
Field Research
Material Trips
Field research documentation — New York · Boston · and beyond
Browse by Category
Natural Dye — An Introduction
Colour from plants, insects, and minerals — fibres, mordants, and the chemistry of natural colour
Indigo Vat — 3-2-1 Fructose Recipe
Natural indigo fermentation vat using fructose as reducing agent and calcium hydroxide as alkali
Botanical Dye Plants
Marigold, palo de brasil, weld, walnut, perikon, and other plant dye sources from field practice
Cochineal Natural Dye — Carmine Red from Scale Insects
Extract vibrant reds, purples, and pinks from cochineal (Dactylopius coccus). Mordant-dependent colour shifts with alum, iron, and copper. Harvested in Oaxaca for over 500 years.
Mordanting
The mineral bridge between dye and fibre — alum, tannin, soy, soda ash, and the chemistry of colour fastness
Eco-Printing
Steam-printing botanical pigments directly onto mordanted fabric — leaves, petals, and bark leaving their imprint in the fibre
Plant Fiber — Hemp, Nettle & Bast Fibres
Natural bast fibres from stem plants — textile, paper, rope, and biomaterial applications
Gromwell — 자초 (Lithospermum erythrorhizon)
Korean purple root pigment — shikonin extracted in oil or alcohol, not water
pH & Colour Shifts in Natural Dyeing
Same dye bath, different colours: how vinegar (acid) and soda ash (alkaline) shift natural dye results. Practical guide for hibiscus, cochineal, weld, and madder.
Learn & Make
From archive to studio — learn these materials in person
The research here forms the foundation of our workshops and 1:1 material consultations. If you want to work with a specific material — hands-on, in the studio — reach out.